February’s fashion month is finally wrapped up with Nicolas Ghèsquieres spaceship collection for Louis Vuitton ending Paris Fashion Week last Tuesday. This article comes just in time to refresh the memory with what went down after a month filled with shows, shows and shows.
By third year Fashion & Branding student An-Sofie Vandecruys.
Set at Calvin Klein AW18.
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein surprised once again with his popcorn farmhouse set. Simons is known for making divergent statements with metaphorical references to the American movie scene. This time the catwalk floor was filled with popcorn as a suggestion that movies are the only thing that keeps the American coasts and mainland together. Or is it maybe, because we all eat popcorn and like to watch, observe and judge? Apart from the conceptual approach from Simons, his designs were a combination of different styles (check print, oversized coats, sleek snits) merged in a unanimous whole.
Calvin Klein AW18.
One show that definitely stood out from the crowd was the one of Sies Marjan which revealed an intense play of shading colours going from bright pink to dark purple, alternated with some deep brown and green tones. Besides the mesmerizing colour palette, the designs were a mix of elegant long dresses, classic trench coats with a sturdy touch and long pants combined with long shirts.
Sies Marjan AW18.
Bold, statement coats with eighties inspired influences as we’ve seen in the collections of both Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs. Besides the oversized silhouettes remarkable were the the bold primary colours leaving a mark on the whole Marc Jacobs collection.
Marc Jacobs AW18.
Apart from the big designer houses, a lot of smaller fashion designers presented their winter. collections. Feminine, quite loose silhouettes and lots of layering was seen in the collections of Prabal Gurung, Nanushka, Rosie Assoulin and Maryam Nassir Zadeh.
Rosie Assoulin AW18.
Landing in rainy London, the LGBTQ+ inspired collection of Christopher Bailey for Burberry was remarkable. The whole collection was a trip down memory line bringing back trends and styles of Bailey’s time as creative director. This show was both a tribute to the LGBTQ+ movement and a goodbye from Bailey self, who wove some typical Burberry elements in the collection. Riccardo Tisci, former director of Givenchy, will follow up Bailey.
Fun fact, the Queen of England, yes Her Majesty, made a surprise appearance on the front row at Richard Quinn’s AW18 show. She was there to present the designer with the first ever Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design.
Arriving in Milan where everyone was beyond excited for Alessandro Michèle fall show for Gucci. Expectations are high as BoF ranked Gucci as the second hottest brands of 2017, just landing under Balenciaga. The decor was an operation room with the well-known green blue floors and bright cold lights. The most random, and most Instagrammed look, were models carrying around a replica of their head. The collection nevertheless was good, but not one of Michèle’s bests. Gucci wasn’t the only one to bring animals to the catwalk. At the Tod’s show, models walked around with cute puppies.
In Paris, Simon Porte Jacquemus announced that he will start with his own menswear line called L’Homme Jacquemus. This is definitely a collection that I will be forward to look upcoming June during the Men’s Fashion Week.
The set of Dior took three weeks to build in Musée Rodin. The collection was a throwback to the end of the sixties which are known for a lot of student protest in Paris. This angle was the inspiration of Chiuri who used the crochets, the embroideries and the patchworks and designed them through Dior’s luxury lens.
Mention worthy was the show of Loewe were Anderson brought 15 different coats to the catwalk. Balenciaga let women and men walk together on the runway for the first time. The whole production process was done through technology. The models’ bodies were 3-D scanned, the “fittings” happened in a computer file and then prototypes of the designs were printed out. Traditional fabrics were bonded into a lightweight foam. The result of this fabric melt was models walking in their identically shaped razor-sharp, sleek, basque-waisted jackets and coats.
Rei Kawakubo, for Comme des Garçons, created a show from frills and fantasy which embodied her vision of Comme des Garçons Campas. Designs were a merger of crinolines, lace, and flowers.
Comme des Garçons AW18.
And that’s it, yet another month of fashion has passed by. But with all the interesting shows, points of view, and conceptual collections, the top of the fashion industry didn’t bring, in my opinion, important issues to light. Big, corporate industries didn’t address any of the sustainability issues that the fashion world faces today. We remain in a system where there are hundreds of new collections presented each six months, from clothing to shoes, to bags, to jewellery, and even to make-up. It’s a shame that we still cheer on a system that encourages us to buy new clothes every season while our closets are bulging out of stuff. It’s too bad that big fashion designers and magazines aren’t communicating, or using, new, more sustainable, producing techniques.