AMFI's Graduation Show January 2024
February 28, 2024From dramatic outfits on stilts to unconventional pants without backsides and glittery clogs, the Amsterdam Fashion Institute's 2024 Graduation Show was a vibrant celebration of quirkiness, sustainability, and digital fashion innovation. During the extended show, not only this year's graduate designers but also designers who graduated in 2023 showcased their best work in the bustling Zuiderkerk in Amsterdam. Their show had been cancelled last July due to a storm. Designer Alex Popescu kicked things off with his collection "Spectacle Unveiled," setting the stage for a total of (number) emerging fashion talents to share their perspectives on the runway. We had the opportunity to interview four of these visionary designers about their collections.
Read about four of our graduates: Sophie van den Broek, David R. Siepman, Siddarth Mishra and Sophie Priem.
Sophie van den Broek unveiled "La femme enfant Terrible," a collection that navigates the devaluation of childlike femininity, transitioning from innocence to empowerment. Through hyperfeminine silhouettes mingled with horror-inspired elements, Van den Broek's designs challenge societal norms, advocating for empowerment and the celebration of femininity as a force of disruption and change.
David R. Siepman introduced "DRAGEN," a collection that embodies the burdens of ambition and the quest for balance amidst the pressures of personal and professional aspirations. By incorporating weighted elements into his garments, Siepman offers a physical manifestation of psychological weight, seeking to alleviate anxiety and boost confidence in wearers, ultimately achieving a state of weightlessness and equilibrium.
Siddharth Mishra presented a collection that champions gender equality and cultural diversity, challenging traditional gender stereotypes through clothing. Inspired by folklore and handcrafts from various cultures, Mishra's work blurs the lines between masculinity and femininity, promoting a future where fashion transcends gender constraints.
Sophie Priem's "Unwavering Stories - Chapter Four" pays homage to the women in her family across four generations, using textiles and fashion as a medium of self-expression, strength, and independence. With a focus on sustainability and social messaging, Priem explores the evolution of women's clothing, transforming historical symbols of oppression into emblems of freedom and strength, thereby advocating for body emancipation and self-ownership.
In a recent exploration into the intersection of fashion with social relevance, the four emerging designers shared their innovative approaches to sustainability, diversity, inclusion, and digitalization. Their insights reveal a profound commitment to reshaping the fashion industry into a more ethical and inclusive space.
Photo credit: Lex Overtoom
Student: Sophie van den Broek
Sophie van den Broek focuses on sustainability through the exclusive use of deadstock materials, crafting couture pieces that celebrate traditional craftsmanship and carry a strong social message of empowerment. Her collection, deeply rooted in personal experiences of being underestimated due to her feminine appearance, challenges societal norms and champions the strengths inherent in femininity.
David R. Siepman addresses the digital age's impact on ambition and personal relationships, highlighting the ethical dilemmas faced by his generation. His work reflects a deep engagement with sustainability, questioning the effectiveness of current efforts and urging future generations to continue striving for environmental responsibility despite uncertainties.
Siddharth Mishra emphasizes the importance of material sustainability, constructing his collection entirely from recycled materials. His approach not only showcases a commitment to ethical production but also celebrates cultural diversity, blending Western and Eastern textiles to tell stories of people from different backgrounds.
Sophie Priem presents a collection guided by environmental sustainability, utilizing second-hand or recycled materials to minimize ecological impact. Her designs, free from hardware and versatile in wear, are a testament to her dedication to longevity, adaptability, and the reduction of fashion's environmental footprint.
Each designer's unique process highlights the deep personal connection and thoughtful consideration behind their collections. A captivating exploration of the creative process that takes months is intimate and therefore different for all designers.
Photo credit: Lex Overtoom
Student: David Siepman
Sophie van den Broek delves into the history of "la femme enfant terrible" and the role of horror, aiming to capture the contrasts between strength and vulnerability. Her approach involved transitioning from research to digital toiles for experimenting with textures and colors, before refining these ideas into physical prototypes. Van den Broek's collection embodies the essence of rebellious femininity, showcasing the influence of horror and her pursuit of contrast and innovation.
David R. Siepman's collection was inspired by the weight of a knitted cuff on a windbreaker, sparking an exploration of weight in garments and its societal relevance. Siepman's process became a personal journey of understanding his relationship with ambition, allowing him to infuse his collection with meaning and complexity. The result is a line that feels accessible and desirable for daily use, deeply intertwined with his personal experiences and conceptual ideas.
Siddharth Mishra emphasizes the labor-intensive nature of his work, crafting every piece by hand to challenge cis-heteronormative norms in fashion. Mishra incorporates traditional handcrafting techniques to celebrate cultural diversity and convey stories of gender, queerness, sexuality, style, and beauty through his textiles and craftsmanship.
Sophie Priem enjoyed the intense and personal experience of her graduation project, appreciating the opportunity to express her vision through her collection. She chose to present her work in a mood video, a lookbook video, and a collection book that dives into the stories behind the items and the women in her family. Priem's project culminates in a vibrant showcase of her learnings and experiences, warmly received for its depth and personal touch.
Sophie van den Broek is currently carving out a career as a product designer, delving into various design areas to broaden her skill set. She appreciates the integration of different disciplines into her work and uses Instagram to share her graduation collection, with plans to feature future collections as well. Follow her journey on Instagram: sophie.vandenbroek.
David R. Siepman has ambitious plans to launch a multidisciplinary label with friends, focusing primarily on fashion but also embracing other art forms. This venture is expected to kick off by the end of 2024, with the complete rollout of his collection to be showcased on his Instagram @drs.oooo in the meantime.
Siddharth Mishra is committed to continuous creation, fuelling his passion for designing. He is currently immersed in studying indigenous textiles and plans to travel to different regions to deepen his understanding and gather inspiration. Mishra is working on starting his own label, which will feature unique, genderless pieces available for customization on his newly launched website. Despite a busy year, he's returning to Instagram with new accounts - ateliersm__ and its__sid.m, where he will share his work and upcoming project updates.
Photo credit: Lex Overtoom
Student: Sophie Priem